Since the dawn of time, people have shaved, plucked, waxed and otherwise yanked unwanted hair. But it always grew back. Eventually electrolysis promised a more permanent solution. But to some people, zapping individual hair follicles with an electrified needle takes too long and hurts too much. Then lasers shed a new light on hair removal.

Lasers now perform an ever-expanding buffet of cosmetic services, from skin tightening to tattoo removal. Laser hair removal debuted about 15 years ago. Lasers, which destroy follicles by creating heat, can treat hair that grows virtually anywhere, with women’s upper lips, bikini lines and underarms topping the list of hot spots. Local providers say lasers offer a “semipermanent” solution to unwanted hair in less time — and with less pain — than other approaches. And those seeking bareness are buying it.

The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reports that nearly 1.5 million U.S. men and women had laser hair removal in 2006. It was the No. 3 nonsurgical cosmetic procedure, behind only Botox and hyaluronic acid, a skin filler similar to collagen.

The growing number of local providers who offer laser hair removal say technology has steadily improved the treatment’s efficiency and effectiveness — and decreased any pain that results. For example, some newer lasers are safe and effective for all skin types, which was not always true of older technology.

Dr. Alice Cohen, of the Randali Centre for Aesthetic Medicine, 160 N. Pointe Blvd., Lancaster, attributes laser hair removal’s rising popularity to changing standards of beauty, especially when it comes to men. “Back when I was growing up, manly men had hair,” says Cohen, who has used lasers for about four years. “The more hair, the better. Now guys want to be smooth. Right now, bare is beautiful.”

A long-term solution? Lasers permanently reduce unwanted hair, but they can’t remove it entirely, says Cohen, a board-certified family physician. “We will eliminate a lot of hair,” she says, “but we won’t promise you will be left with no hair standing.” The best results typically take about five treatments, says Dr. William Carter, of Medical Cosmetics, 930 Red Rose Court, Lancaster. Hair begins falling out about a week after treatments, which are spaced about one to three months apart.People with light skin and dark hair see the best results, says Carter, a board-certified family physician with four years of laser hair removal experience. “It’s not extremely difficult to get rid of dark hair with a laser,” he says. “Lighter hair has been very resistant to treatment.” Electrolysis is often a better bet for blond, red or gray hair, he says.
Even after several laser treatments, periodic follow-ups may be necessary, says Dr. Bruce A. Brod, a board-certified dermatologist and spokesman for the American Academy of Dermatology. “Sometimes the hairs do regenerate over time,” says Brod, who has performed laser hair removal at Dermatology Associates of Lancaster for two years. “It’s not truly permanent, but it can last for a long time.”

Shop around New lasers are flooding the market so rapidly that the Food and Drug Administration can’t maintain an up-to-date list of those approved for hair removal. The FDA — which does not compare or recommend individual lasers — allows manufacturers to call laser hair removal “permanent” or “painless” only when those claims are backed with sufficient data. That makes doing your homework even more important before choosing a provider. Locally, single treatments range from about $50 to $1,000, depending on the size of the treated area. Instead of individual follicles, lasers target all the hairs in a small area, then move on to treat adjacent skin. Treatment takes 15 minutes to two hours, depending on the area, Carter says.

Laser hair removal is relatively safe but not entirely risk-free, Brod says. Everyone in the treatment room must wear eye protection. On rare occasions, darker skin, in particular, may absorb some laser energy, causing blistering, scarring and loss of pigmentation, he says. Brod recommends choosing a provider who is well-trained and supervised by a physician. “Laser is a type of surgery,” he says. “Presumably people wouldn’t want to have surgery done by (just) anybody.”

Does it hurt? Many people find laser hair removal only slightly painful, like snapping the skin with a rubber band. People with darker hair might feel more discomfort. More sensitive areas, such as the upper lip, can be numbed with an analgesic cream, Brod says. New techniques to make laser hair removal more comfortable include a suction device that causes patients to feel only pressure, not pain. Many providers, including Carter, decrease discomfort by cooling the skin during treatment. “I don’t think I’ve had anyone stop coming because they couldn’t stand it,” he says.  But pain, of course, is subjective. And for some people, like Aida Rodriguez, of Lancaster, laser hair removal hurt. “Imagine somebody just pinching you a bunch of times,” she says. “It’s just constant.”

Rodriguez recently tried the Randali Centre’s new laser on her upper lip and underarms. The laser uses lower energy levels and cools the skin, Cohen says, resulting in “virtually painless” hair removal.

“All I felt was this little bit of heat,” Rodriguez says. “It was doable.”

ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS Here are some questions to ask when choosing a laser hair removal provider:

• Are you a board-certified physician?
• What is your specialty?
• Is there a board-certified physician anywhere on the premises?
• Where did you get your training for laser hair removal?
• Do you own your own lasers?
• How many different lasers do you own? (This is important because different lasers work better on different skin and hair types.)
• Is your laser good for people with my skin type?
• Do you have any references?
• How much does laser hair removal cost?

— Source: Dr. Eric F. Bernstein, dermatologist and medical director, Mainline Cosmetic Laser Center, on hairremovaljournal.org

This article originally appeared in Lancaster Newspaper August 24, 2008